In response to the growing demand for natural and sustainable ingredients, the cosmetics and fragrance industry is exploring innovative sourcing solutions for plant-based components. Vertical farming, a form of controlled agriculture, is gaining attention as a viable sourcing method that offers reliable supplies and resource efficiency.
In 2022, Lindsay Azpitarte, in collaboration with the Shiseido Group, introduced Ulé, a brand of natural products that revolutionizes cosmetics with ultra-local plant sourcing from vertical farming. Ulé’s flagship ingredients, known for their skin-enhancing properties, are extracted from exotic plants cultivated at Tower Farm, a vertical farming facility located near Paris.
Lindsay Azpitarte, the visionary behind Ulé, shared her motivation, stating, “I wanted to create a brand rooted in conscious beauty, merging my passion for urbanism and nature’s accessibility to people.”
The concept of indoor cultivation, marked by precise control over plant development parameters, aligns with the expectations of brands and ingredient suppliers in France.
The advantages of vertical farming include year-round availability of biomass for plant extraction, freedom from seasonal constraints, and the ability to process plants within hours of harvest, resulting in a rich cocktail of molecules. Additionally, this method reduces land requirements, optimizes plant resources, conserves water through closed-circuit watering (reducing consumption by 95%), and offers proximity-based sourcing, addressing issues related to climate change and logistics in emerging countries.
Gilles Dreyfus, founder of Jungle, France’s first vertical farm, highlighted its significance, particularly in the cosmetics and perfume sector, where it generates half of its revenue. Jungle collaborates with ingredient supplier Firmenich to research and cultivate various plant species with the potential to yield fragrance or active ingredients more efficiently and cost-effectively.
One noteworthy outcome of this partnership is the creation of the first natural lily of the valley extract for perfumery, previously challenging due to the flower’s short flowering cycle. Jungle also cultivates violets and other plants that benefit from controlled environments for optimal olfactory expression.
Controlling cultivation parameters in vertical farming opens avenues for precision agriculture, focusing on improving a plant’s ability to produce specific molecules.
In the United States, Capsum, a contract manufacturer serving European and US markets, incorporates a precision vertical farm into its sustainable cosmetics production facility. This integrated approach allows Capsum to optimize the production of active plant ingredients, resulting in a threefold increase in polyphenol content compared to standard conditions.
While vertical farming offers environmental benefits, concerns about energy consumption persist. Pascale Brousse, Director of Trendsourcing, emphasized the importance of addressing this issue, despite its advantages in reducing carbon impact and water consumption. Industry stakeholders are actively working to optimize energy use, with plans to rely on 80% renewable energy from solar sources in future farms.
Vertical farming’s potential in the cosmetics industry aligns with brands’ strategies focusing on sustainability and climate change. However, consumer education and transparency are essential, as vertical farming cannot receive organic certification in Europe due to its off-farm nature. Rooftop cultivation is also emerging as a complementary solution worth considering.
In summary, vertical farming is gaining relevance in cosmetics and fragrance sourcing, offering an intelligent approach to product development in tune with sustainability and future-oriented scenarios.
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