Recent data from Barclays and Citi indicates a continued decline in luxury spending in the United States, with a 15% year-over-year decrease reported for November, following a 14% drop in October. This trend was also observed in the luxury fashion sector, where purchases fell by 9.6% year-over-year in November after an 11.4% decrease in October. According to a report by Reuters on December 13, the luxury goods market is navigating through a challenging period marked by geopolitical tensions, inflationary pressures, and an excess inventory accumulated for the holiday season. This situation has raised concerns about potential discounting practices that could undermine the perceived value of luxury brands.
Olivier Abtan, a partner and managing director at AlixPartners, noted that last year’s purchasing orders were placed before the slowdown in the sector became apparent, following a surge in post-pandemic spending. The luxury market’s difficulties are further compounded by geopolitical uncertainties in the Middle East and inflation, affecting consumer spending in the U.S. and Europe. Additionally, the anticipated post-pandemic recovery in China has been hindered by a property crisis. Department stores, in particular, might face challenges over the next six to twelve months due to the slowing demand. Citi analysts have highlighted that luxury brands, which rely significantly on sales through department stores, may encounter obstacles. Such stores often resort to aggressive discounting strategies to attract customers, potentially damaging the luxury appeal of the brands and encouraging consumers to delay purchases in anticipation of future discounts.
Despite these challenges, luxury brands have largely managed to maintain control over their retail operations, primarily selling through their own stores to avoid discounts and protect their brand image. Direct-to-consumer sales have grown, making up 52% of the personal luxury goods market in 2023, up from 40% in 2019. Luxury fashion houses are better prepared to navigate current challenges compared to the 2008-2009 financial crisis. They have incorporated artificial intelligence to forecast sales and adjust production, as well as optimized their product mix to include both seasonal and permanent styles.
In response to the excess inventory, luxury brands are reportedly seeking discreet methods to offload unsold stock without compromising their brand image. Options include off-price outlets and other secondary channels to clear inventory efficiently.
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