In recent years, Vermont has seen a resurgence in locally sourced grain for bread production, a shift not seen since the 19th century. This development was highlighted during a recent bus tour organized by the Bread Bakers Guild of America, which showcased various local initiatives in the state. The tour began at Nitty Gritty Grain Company in Charlotte, where David Kenyon provided insights into their wheat fields. Historically, wheat was not grown in Vermont after early European settlers left the region, with flour typically sourced from the Midwest where conditions are more suitable for wheat cultivation. However, changes have been underway. The local grain movement gained momentum about 18 years ago, inspired by Vermont’s localvore movement, which emphasizes consuming locally sourced food. This movement encouraged bakers to seek out local grain options, leading to collaborations with local farms.
Red Hen Bakery in Middlesex, for example, began exploring local wheat options about 18 years ago. Initially, the quality of local wheat did not meet bakery standards, but improvements followed. Heather Darby, a soil specialist with the University of Vermont Extension and a founding member of the Northern Grain Growers Collaborative, played a key role in enhancing grain quality through better harvesting practices. Today, Vermont bakeries like Red Hen Bakery and Elmore Mountain Bread are successfully using local flour. Blair Marvin and her husband, Andrew Heyn, co-owners of Elmore Mountain Bread, invested in building a local mill to meet their flour needs. Heyn’s company, New American Stone Mills, now supplies mills worldwide.
Despite challenges such as the impact of weather conditions on grain production, the shift to local sourcing has positive implications. It reduces transportation emissions and strengthens local food security, contributing to a more resilient food system in the face of climate change. As Vermont continues to develop its local grain infrastructure, the state’s bakeries are embracing this sustainable practice, further integrating local resources into their production processes.
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