Exploring Moschino’s Future Post Jeremy Scott

After a decade-long creative collaboration, Jeremy Scott and Moschino have recently announced their separation. Scott, who took over as creative director a decade ago, bid farewell on Instagram, expressing his enjoyment in creating designs that he believes will endure over time. His tenure has been marked by a distinctive and often ironic approach to fashion, with notable shows featuring collaborations with Barbie, nods to McDonald’s, and a unique catwalk experience during a Covid-era show in September 2020.

In the most recent Milan Fashion Week, the spring/summer 2023 collection showcased models adorned with colorful, inflatable swimming rings and dresses featuring inflatable hems, necklines, and sleeves, along with deckchair-inspired stripes. The collection aimed to bring joy, according to Scott. The preceding autumn/winter 2023 collection took a more dramatic turn, drawing inspiration from surrealist artist Salvador Dalí’s iconic melting clocks, featuring punk-inspired dark Mohawk hairstyles and meandering hemlines.

Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Moschino’s parent company Aeffe Group, acknowledged Scott’s creative contribution, describing him as a “creative force” and expressing gratitude for his ten-year commitment. Aeffe Group, which also oversees fashion brands Alberta Ferretti and Philosophy, as well as footwear brand Pollini, reported a loss of €9 million (£7.9 million) in the year ending December 2022, attributing it to Covid restrictions impacting demand in China.

Industry experts speculate that the financial performance of Aeffe Group may have played a role in Scott’s departure, given the loss incurred in 2022 compared to the previous profitable year. Headhunter Paul Meechan suggests that the loss could have influenced Scott’s decision to explore new opportunities or consider offers that regularly come his way.

Stacey McCarthy, co-managing director of executive recruitment agency Mode Search, notes that refreshing creative strategies is common for brands looking to appeal to evolving consumer tastes. She emphasizes the importance of keeping the brand fresh to attract new clients and customers.

Amid a trend of changes in creative leadership within the fashion industry, including Alessandro Michele leaving Gucci and Pharrell Williams joining Louis Vuitton, McCarthy suggests that the pressure on creative directors to make brands both cool and commercially successful may contribute to the frequent changes.

Luxury goods analyst Luca Solca acknowledges a possible shift in Moschino’s quirky signature designs, driven by changing consumer tastes. He sees the need for a deft interpretation of Moschino’s ironic DNA in line with the contemporary spirit.

As Moschino begins the process of refreshing its strategy, the search for a successor to Jeremy Scott is underway. The question remains whether Moschino’s distinctive “tongue-in-cheek” aesthetic will persist in the post-Scott era. Fashion insiders, including designer Patrick McDowell, reflect on Scott’s impactful tenure, hoping that Moschino’s humorous and ironic edge can be sustained with a solid sustainability strategy in the coming years. The brand’s future direction is eagerly awaited by the fashion community.